We are in the midst of the dragon season at the moment. The full moon, which will be Sunday 27th September, heralds the mid-Autumn festival, when dragons prowl the streets and have to be placated with gifts, usually money, sweets of snacks.
Each dragon comprises about 10 boys age 8-12. They wear satin trousers, fringed to resemble scales. The head, is inhabited by a boy standing upright, while the rest of the dragon, a further four, are bent double holding his waist and covered by the sort of train attached to the head. Two more operate the large drum which is absolutely essential to announce the approach and performance of a kind of dance, of the dragon, and a further couple of boys push the cart which holds the drum. There is also one costumed fellow who wears a pig mask. I do not know what his role is.
If the dragon visits your house, that is good luck, but he usually appears at family members homes and also prowls the hotels, where the pickings are quite good from tourists. As we have about 300 hotels and guest houses in Hoi An, there is no way even mutliple dragons can cover them all on one night, so they have been roving around for about 10 days now. The gifts have to be put into the mouth of the dragon, and if you meet one in the street, it is wise to offer him a small donation. Lots of small change needed this week.
They can be any colour, but red is most auspicious. I have seen one of those, fringed in gold, plus a teenage one (bigger boys) in orange, several in yellow with red fringes, green and gold and blue and gold. The drumming begins as soon as school kicks out and goes on until about 9pm. Next week, the silence will sound loud!
Friday 25 September 2015
Wednesday 22 July 2015
Safely in Hoi An after 7 weeks swanning around the US. Too many airports, since we live so far away and after Ho Chi Ming, Tokyo, LA, to finally reach Miami left me reeling for a while. Thence to NY via Atlanta, then I was seriously fed up so we did the rest by road, hiring a car in New York and taking off for Tennessee, Alabama and finally Chicago. All was fine until we had to do the Chicago, Tokyo, Ho Chi Minh bit again. Still, now recovered and have only the summer heat to contend with here.
Just before we left to go on holiday, the garden outside was cut right down. It is now 2m high in weeds again but that is the tropics for you.
Just before we left to go on holiday, the garden outside was cut right down. It is now 2m high in weeds again but that is the tropics for you.
Saturday 30 May 2015
We finally caught up with Chappie, the last move Calvin was in. Not my cup of tea, really but Calvin was clearly visible in several scenes, notably in the background while Hugh Jackman and Dev Patel had a flaming row. It was an interesting take on the whole robot thing, but Science Fiction will never really appeal to me.
Thursday 28 May 2015
A couple more interesting food treats. We went to a restaurant the other night and both ordered duck; mine was roast duck with vegetables and cashews and Calvin had a duck curry. This is the Vietnamese version, mild, and made with coconut milk. As usual my mountain of beans, beansprouts bok choy and carrot atop noodles arrived with a surprisingly large amount of duck concealed at every chopstickful (there is usually just a couple of slim slices of meat) and the cashews were everywhere. Calvin also found his curry jampacked with duck pieces and dinner was very satisfying, with a complimentary profiterole and iced tea for the princely sum of $3 each, On the way home we estimated that between us we had eaten the best part of an entire duck.
On another day, we were out at lunchtime and stopped for some simple meat and noodles, which came with what was termed, in delightful Vietnamese English, a muntaint of crisps - freshly cut and fried for each client. Fresh, hot potato crisps are excellent.
Later that same day (we estimated on our return that we had been wandering for some 6 hours in the heat), we stopped at a restaurant for an icecream, and I had what was possibly the best grenadilla icecream I shall ever eat (until my next visit to that restaurant) Calvin had a similarly delicious mango coup in a stemmed glass.
On another day, we were out at lunchtime and stopped for some simple meat and noodles, which came with what was termed, in delightful Vietnamese English, a muntaint of crisps - freshly cut and fried for each client. Fresh, hot potato crisps are excellent.
Later that same day (we estimated on our return that we had been wandering for some 6 hours in the heat), we stopped at a restaurant for an icecream, and I had what was possibly the best grenadilla icecream I shall ever eat (until my next visit to that restaurant) Calvin had a similarly delicious mango coup in a stemmed glass.
Friday 22 May 2015
We are learning that here, as in every other expatriate community, there is a network which you have to plug into. We have found the 'pub quiz' which operates on Wednesday evenings at the local Australian sportsbar. It is general knowledge and operated by a Swiss guy whose English actually sounds Irish. Anyway, we came second on our first try. The deal at the bar is that one of the local beers is discounted by 50% for the night and pizzas are 2 for the price of one. We may take part occasionally for the hell of it.
Similarly, on Sunday evenings at the beach, there is one restaurant/bar where the expats hang out and any musician who comes along and wants to play is welcome. The first time was a bit noisy because there was a keyboard synthezer, two electronic guitars and a drummer, but last week there was a power cut, so there were two regular guitars, a singer and a harmonica. Much more my style. It begins about 5 p.m. and we leave around 9p.m. This is not a late town (because most people have to start really early) and has closed down by 11p.m.
Similarly, on Sunday evenings at the beach, there is one restaurant/bar where the expats hang out and any musician who comes along and wants to play is welcome. The first time was a bit noisy because there was a keyboard synthezer, two electronic guitars and a drummer, but last week there was a power cut, so there were two regular guitars, a singer and a harmonica. Much more my style. It begins about 5 p.m. and we leave around 9p.m. This is not a late town (because most people have to start really early) and has closed down by 11p.m.
Thursday 21 May 2015
Interesting sidelight on wildlife attitudes. I do not quite know what to make of it. We met a man along our street (lane) who was chivvying a rather handsome snake with a stick. He was obviously not afraid of it, although one could not say the same about his dog, nor did he want to capture of kill it. He simply wanted it off the street, so when he had manoeuvred it near a drain, it obliged and disappeared down it. It was a lovely creature about 1.2m long in light grey green with a pinkish blush under the 'chin'. .
Either he is a devout Buddhist (do not kill) or knew it was harmless. Very different from attitudes in Africa, at any rate.
Similarly, the other evening it rained and a toad took refuge under the 'carport' in our courtyard. He was the size of a tennis ball (but then he had puffed himself up) and tiger's eye in colouration. The landlord's daughter who was tending the plants at the time, found it amusing that we were interested in him at all.
Either he is a devout Buddhist (do not kill) or knew it was harmless. Very different from attitudes in Africa, at any rate.
Similarly, the other evening it rained and a toad took refuge under the 'carport' in our courtyard. He was the size of a tennis ball (but then he had puffed himself up) and tiger's eye in colouration. The landlord's daughter who was tending the plants at the time, found it amusing that we were interested in him at all.
Wednesday 6 May 2015
I have decided that Hoi An water is possibly the softest in the world. The tiniest amount of bodywash on my scrunchies is like having a bubble bath - it takes ten minutes to sluice off all the froth. And one of those shampoo sachets which airlines hand out - that does two washes easily, so much lather does it make.
In addition, I think this must be one of the most pollution-free environments too. With only mopeds, electric bikes and cycles on the street, there is no emission problem. Each shop and business organises a kerbside fire, in a firebucket, every night as they close up, to dispose of the day's rubbish, and our dustbin is emptied with thrice weekly regularity and presumably sent off to burn somewhere.
Although chickens and dogs wander freely, at least in residential streets, I have never seen dog or chicken poo anywhere. Pavements are swept each morning by the businesses they front, and the park is hosed each day. You never see litter in the streets, even though vegetables are sold on the roadside. Plastic bags are given out with gay abandon, but none blow in the breeze where you walk.
Most mysterious, and gratifying
In addition, I think this must be one of the most pollution-free environments too. With only mopeds, electric bikes and cycles on the street, there is no emission problem. Each shop and business organises a kerbside fire, in a firebucket, every night as they close up, to dispose of the day's rubbish, and our dustbin is emptied with thrice weekly regularity and presumably sent off to burn somewhere.
Although chickens and dogs wander freely, at least in residential streets, I have never seen dog or chicken poo anywhere. Pavements are swept each morning by the businesses they front, and the park is hosed each day. You never see litter in the streets, even though vegetables are sold on the roadside. Plastic bags are given out with gay abandon, but none blow in the breeze where you walk.
Most mysterious, and gratifying
Monday 4 May 2015
We have just finished a rather momentous weekend. April 30th was the 40th Anniversary of the end of the Vietnam War (very important to Vietnamese) May lst was Workers Day (very important to Communists) and May 2nd was full moon (very important to Buddhists). To add to all this, there was an International Choir Competition in Hoi An with choirs from 17 nations taking part from 29th April to 2nd May.
On the evening of the 30th, there was an openair concert by 5 of the choirs, which we attended (it was free) which took place in the square outside the Information Centre. So we heard offerings by the Australians, the Indonesians, the Malaysians, the Philippinos and a school choir from Hanoi.
This last was most interesting, since it consisted of 70 children aged 6-15 accompanied by 3 different sized bamboo flutes and was obviously a folksong in which the children did wonderful imitations of bird calls and their fluttering, by using their fingers. Very impressive, and different.
Of course, the Australian choir was a big one about 35 people - Far Eastern choirs lack basses and baritones and therefore are usually much smaller - 10-15 individuals. And, like their traditional orchestras which lack anything in the Bassoon, Double Bass range, their work sounds a little thin, although accomplished enough. The Indonesian choir was particularly fine, I thought, with the soprano soloist weaving her voice in between the choral singing, to great effect.
Apart from the nations mentioned above, there were choirs from China, Japan, Korea, Singapore
On the evening of the 30th, there was an openair concert by 5 of the choirs, which we attended (it was free) which took place in the square outside the Information Centre. So we heard offerings by the Australians, the Indonesians, the Malaysians, the Philippinos and a school choir from Hanoi.
This last was most interesting, since it consisted of 70 children aged 6-15 accompanied by 3 different sized bamboo flutes and was obviously a folksong in which the children did wonderful imitations of bird calls and their fluttering, by using their fingers. Very impressive, and different.
Of course, the Australian choir was a big one about 35 people - Far Eastern choirs lack basses and baritones and therefore are usually much smaller - 10-15 individuals. And, like their traditional orchestras which lack anything in the Bassoon, Double Bass range, their work sounds a little thin, although accomplished enough. The Indonesian choir was particularly fine, I thought, with the soprano soloist weaving her voice in between the choral singing, to great effect.
Apart from the nations mentioned above, there were choirs from China, Japan, Korea, Singapore
Friday 1 May 2015
Next to our building is a fenced area which seems to be a defunct vegetable patch. Someone came with a machete the other day and cut it all down. I presume it will be cleared later on.
This has revealed a new neighbour -a lizard, definitely Agamidae, possibly Agaminae, with their typical rough skin. He is about 13cm long, of which at least half is tail, kinked where it was once broken, and he is a sandy colour except for his forequarters and head which are orange. This colour seems to vary at times and goes from a dull brick to a real flame colour. He has long thin legs and very long toes and can leap at least three times his own length in pursuit of a fly on the wing.
Under his 'chin' is a black patch and his nape is adorned with a row of blunt prickles. He spends his time patrolling the wire netting which is the fence, on which some kind of creeper still clings, so we are able to watch him every morning from the kitchen window while we make breakfast..
This has revealed a new neighbour -a lizard, definitely Agamidae, possibly Agaminae, with their typical rough skin. He is about 13cm long, of which at least half is tail, kinked where it was once broken, and he is a sandy colour except for his forequarters and head which are orange. This colour seems to vary at times and goes from a dull brick to a real flame colour. He has long thin legs and very long toes and can leap at least three times his own length in pursuit of a fly on the wing.
Under his 'chin' is a black patch and his nape is adorned with a row of blunt prickles. He spends his time patrolling the wire netting which is the fence, on which some kind of creeper still clings, so we are able to watch him every morning from the kitchen window while we make breakfast..
Wednesday 29 April 2015
Last night while strolling in the streets, we came upon a new sight. At one road junction, there is a sort of peninsula formed by two streets, and on it, there are usually people gossiping, or a few musicians, and it seems a centre for social activity.
Yesterday, there was a big crowd, an orchestra of local instruments (5 in number) and a man and woman engaged in what looked like a patter song, intoned rather than sung, until I noticed that the audience had small wooden paddles, about the size of a paperback, on which were inscribed three symbols each, and each one different.
Presently, between the singers and the band were hung larger paddles, rather like cricket bats, on which were also inscribed 3 symbols. I realised I was watching something between a fruit machine and bingo. If your paddle had one symbol from each of the 3 large bats, you won. When that happened, and there seemed a bewildering variety of possible symbols, there was a fanfare from the band, a man blew a whistle, and a silk flag waved. Then the paddles were collected, resold and it all began again.
The streets are always alive at night, because although the Vietnamese usually eat at home, they come out afterwards for sweets, cool drinks and sociability. On An Hoi, there is a large sculpture park beside the river, and it all happens there. Near the fancy bridge into the old town, there are the breakdance youngster, with a boombox playing hip hop and they always draw a good crowd.
Further along at the little kids who kick a ball, or play complicated games or pretend to be cyclomen.
Cyclos are bicycles with a two-wheel peramulator in front for the paying passenger. They are rather expensive. There is a miniature version of this which kids (or rather their parents) can rent by the hour and a proud 9 year old will be seen riding around with his 4 year old sister as passenger.
Near our end of the island, which has fewer restaurants and hotels, the riverbank is colonised by tiny tables and chairs where the young hang out, drinking fizzy drinks, flirting and chatting. If it is an all boy group, they may smoke and drink beer, but if girls are present, then it is a milkshake and no smoking, since Vietnamese women do neither. There are always a couple of card schools going and sometimes a whole family, including small children will be taking dessert and catching up on the day.
It is really the best time of day, no high temperatures, a slight breeze off the river and romantic lighting from street lights.
Everyone is extremely well-behaved. Our local restaurant, 100 yards away from the flat, has a large concrete standing beside it, and this hosts a wedding about once a week. A kind of marquee is erected and plastic chairs are decorated with covers and bows, By law, you can only take three hours for such an affair, because the loudspeaker is really loud. There is always a boy pop singer, sometimes a girl also and they sing soulful songs but no-one dances or joins in, but sits decorously, in best costume, and listens respectfully as if it were church.
Yesterday, there was a big crowd, an orchestra of local instruments (5 in number) and a man and woman engaged in what looked like a patter song, intoned rather than sung, until I noticed that the audience had small wooden paddles, about the size of a paperback, on which were inscribed three symbols each, and each one different.
Presently, between the singers and the band were hung larger paddles, rather like cricket bats, on which were also inscribed 3 symbols. I realised I was watching something between a fruit machine and bingo. If your paddle had one symbol from each of the 3 large bats, you won. When that happened, and there seemed a bewildering variety of possible symbols, there was a fanfare from the band, a man blew a whistle, and a silk flag waved. Then the paddles were collected, resold and it all began again.
The streets are always alive at night, because although the Vietnamese usually eat at home, they come out afterwards for sweets, cool drinks and sociability. On An Hoi, there is a large sculpture park beside the river, and it all happens there. Near the fancy bridge into the old town, there are the breakdance youngster, with a boombox playing hip hop and they always draw a good crowd.
Further along at the little kids who kick a ball, or play complicated games or pretend to be cyclomen.
Cyclos are bicycles with a two-wheel peramulator in front for the paying passenger. They are rather expensive. There is a miniature version of this which kids (or rather their parents) can rent by the hour and a proud 9 year old will be seen riding around with his 4 year old sister as passenger.
Near our end of the island, which has fewer restaurants and hotels, the riverbank is colonised by tiny tables and chairs where the young hang out, drinking fizzy drinks, flirting and chatting. If it is an all boy group, they may smoke and drink beer, but if girls are present, then it is a milkshake and no smoking, since Vietnamese women do neither. There are always a couple of card schools going and sometimes a whole family, including small children will be taking dessert and catching up on the day.
It is really the best time of day, no high temperatures, a slight breeze off the river and romantic lighting from street lights.
Everyone is extremely well-behaved. Our local restaurant, 100 yards away from the flat, has a large concrete standing beside it, and this hosts a wedding about once a week. A kind of marquee is erected and plastic chairs are decorated with covers and bows, By law, you can only take three hours for such an affair, because the loudspeaker is really loud. There is always a boy pop singer, sometimes a girl also and they sing soulful songs but no-one dances or joins in, but sits decorously, in best costume, and listens respectfully as if it were church.
Saturday 25 April 2015
Another day in the life of the world's greatest food tourist - Calvin!
He went out the other day to visit an English-speaking computer guru - a rare thing here, and found a restaurant offering fried oysters for US$5.00 per kilo, so he had a kilo for his lunch. This came to 11 oysters.
Later, that evening, we went out to supper and chose a Vietnamese/Japanese restaurant which specialises in Duck, and employs the mentally and physically disabled. I had a delightful duck salad, but then I am very cautious with my stomach and Calvin had shrimp sushi.
But on the menu was a drink he had never heard of, so he had to have that. It was a kind of liquor/fortified wine made from sweet potato and looked like vodka. Apparently, very pleasant. While I ordered Jasmine tea and a Moringa cookie (a kind of green biscuit flavoured with Moringa leaves), whatever they are, Calvin had a rum coffee and a plate of roasted lotus seeds.
So, you see, the adventure continues, even if we do not always understand where it takes us.
He went out the other day to visit an English-speaking computer guru - a rare thing here, and found a restaurant offering fried oysters for US$5.00 per kilo, so he had a kilo for his lunch. This came to 11 oysters.
Later, that evening, we went out to supper and chose a Vietnamese/Japanese restaurant which specialises in Duck, and employs the mentally and physically disabled. I had a delightful duck salad, but then I am very cautious with my stomach and Calvin had shrimp sushi.
But on the menu was a drink he had never heard of, so he had to have that. It was a kind of liquor/fortified wine made from sweet potato and looked like vodka. Apparently, very pleasant. While I ordered Jasmine tea and a Moringa cookie (a kind of green biscuit flavoured with Moringa leaves), whatever they are, Calvin had a rum coffee and a plate of roasted lotus seeds.
So, you see, the adventure continues, even if we do not always understand where it takes us.
Tuesday 21 April 2015
More about food, weird and otherwise. We have encountered, and eschewed tasting, duck embryos, which are extracted from the shell before feathers form, and are cooked in a stew. There is also a whole frog stew. Now, we have both enjoyed frogs' legs in France, but somehow the whole animal is less than appetising, but I have long been of the opinion that human beings are totally irrational about food.
Most of us will baulk at insects (although Calvin, typically, has tried crickets), but cheerfully eat shrimps, which are only sea insects after all. Similarly, crab is relished, but spiders are not, and both are as ugly and many-legged as one another. Lobster is hideous, but tasty, but scorpions, which, being smaller, are less hideous, are avoided by most of us. None of it makes any sense, really.
No-one has offered me rat, yet, although I know they are eaten here, as are dogs, but with the fat pampered pets I see around town, not, I think, in this area. Life down on the Delta is much tougher and therefore many of those things are eaten there.
The other night, Calvin tried mixed offal, and was rewarded with sliced liver, sliced kidneys, and sliced tripe. He thought he had died and gone to heaven. It's a sort of 'differen' mixed grill.
In addition to the roosters which wake us every day, and the hens who cluck beneath our windows, we now have a resident heifer in the palm plantation opposite our door. She comes and lows at the fence whenever she sees us. I think she is lonely, but musn't get too friendly, as I do not think, this close to town, she is destined for a long life!
Most of us will baulk at insects (although Calvin, typically, has tried crickets), but cheerfully eat shrimps, which are only sea insects after all. Similarly, crab is relished, but spiders are not, and both are as ugly and many-legged as one another. Lobster is hideous, but tasty, but scorpions, which, being smaller, are less hideous, are avoided by most of us. None of it makes any sense, really.
No-one has offered me rat, yet, although I know they are eaten here, as are dogs, but with the fat pampered pets I see around town, not, I think, in this area. Life down on the Delta is much tougher and therefore many of those things are eaten there.
The other night, Calvin tried mixed offal, and was rewarded with sliced liver, sliced kidneys, and sliced tripe. He thought he had died and gone to heaven. It's a sort of 'differen' mixed grill.
In addition to the roosters which wake us every day, and the hens who cluck beneath our windows, we now have a resident heifer in the palm plantation opposite our door. She comes and lows at the fence whenever she sees us. I think she is lonely, but musn't get too friendly, as I do not think, this close to town, she is destined for a long life!
Tuesday 14 April 2015
Our fully furnished and equipped apartment has some strange Vietnamese interpretations of these words. We have 10 sets of chopsticks, two spoons and two forks. No knives. When I mentioned this to the landlord, he promptly produced a chopping board and a cleaver!
Similarly, we have 10 rice bowls, two plates and two mugs, plus teapot, but enough glassware, in every size, to stock a respectable bar. Obviously, Westerners only drink!
And when you try to remedy deficiencies, you find how provincial Hoi An is. No respectable sized towels, except one we were offered printed with Teddy Bears, which is obviously a baby blanket made of towelling. And we have this wonderful extra-length kingsize bed, and are unable to buy sheets that will go anywhere near it.
Obviously. a trip to Da Nang is called for, and the list is growing by the day.
Similarly, we have 10 rice bowls, two plates and two mugs, plus teapot, but enough glassware, in every size, to stock a respectable bar. Obviously, Westerners only drink!
And when you try to remedy deficiencies, you find how provincial Hoi An is. No respectable sized towels, except one we were offered printed with Teddy Bears, which is obviously a baby blanket made of towelling. And we have this wonderful extra-length kingsize bed, and are unable to buy sheets that will go anywhere near it.
Obviously. a trip to Da Nang is called for, and the list is growing by the day.
Monday 13 April 2015
One of the furnishings of our apartment, is a gigantic TV with 125 channels. That may sound impressive but at least 100 of them are Viet, Korean or Chinese and the 8 sports channels are also not in English. That leaves Nat Geo Wild, Discovery. Animal Planet and 4 film channels which show exclusively violent action stuff.
However....attached to this monster, is a small box, would you believe, of streamed movies in an external hard drive. So there are some 2000 of these to choose from. OK, there are still, Viet, Korean and Chinese (but some of the latter, at least, I know) plus Japanese classics, but for the rest there is everything from The Gold Rush to Paddington and 50 shades of Grey,plus series from TV like CSI and Sherlock and The Game of Thrones.
Among the offerings, we found The Salvation, the Danish western filmed near Joburg, in which Calvin took part. So we watched it, and he is clearly visible at least twice. The film, itself, is very grim and unrelentingly miserable, and everyone is very wooden and unemotional. Not recommended, but of course we had to see it, and Calvin says one of the lead roles has been entirely eliminated and much of the rest truncated, and its still too long an ponderous.
However....attached to this monster, is a small box, would you believe, of streamed movies in an external hard drive. So there are some 2000 of these to choose from. OK, there are still, Viet, Korean and Chinese (but some of the latter, at least, I know) plus Japanese classics, but for the rest there is everything from The Gold Rush to Paddington and 50 shades of Grey,plus series from TV like CSI and Sherlock and The Game of Thrones.
Among the offerings, we found The Salvation, the Danish western filmed near Joburg, in which Calvin took part. So we watched it, and he is clearly visible at least twice. The film, itself, is very grim and unrelentingly miserable, and everyone is very wooden and unemotional. Not recommended, but of course we had to see it, and Calvin says one of the lead roles has been entirely eliminated and much of the rest truncated, and its still too long an ponderous.
Friday 10 April 2015
Because this is a tourist town, the Vietnamese tend not to advertise their more weird culinary tastes, but we found one last night which, in addition to "normal" fare, offered pig's brains, pig's ears. jellyfish stew (which, even if I were not allergic, would not be on my list) and silkworm salad. I could see Calvin's eyes light up but we settled for roast suckling pig and duck curry. But I have a feeling, he will want to return to sample some of their more esoteric delights.
Monday 6 April 2015
Vietnamese coffee has long been a mystery. It is inky black, but strangely mild. Now the puzzle is solved.
Apparently the Vietnamese use a fairly low grade of Robusta (they export the best) and dip it in burnt caramel before roasting and grinding. Hence the midnight look and the faintly chocolate aroma of the finished brew
Apparently the Vietnamese use a fairly low grade of Robusta (they export the best) and dip it in burnt caramel before roasting and grinding. Hence the midnight look and the faintly chocolate aroma of the finished brew
Wednesday 1 April 2015
Moving to a new country, where you do not have the language is always a bureaucratic nightmare and achievements have to be measured in tiny victories each day. I think I have had my passport photocopied at least 8 times already. First there was the guesthouse, then the estate agent, then the landlord for the lease, then the police to register our presence in town, then the notary ( 3 copies -God knows what he does with them all). Then after we moved in, the landlord borrowed the passports again, for some unspecified reason.
I can understand in a Communist country that the government wants to keep track of the strangers, but, that said, we have no address! We live down an alley, off another alley (both unnamed), off a boulevard which does have a name. And our building has no number or other indication of its nature or occupants. The best one can do if you want to direct a visitor, or taxi driver is to say that we live down the alley between The Little Hoi An Hotel and the Nova Villa Hotel. Go to the end, turn right and we are the 2nd building on the right.
I can understand in a Communist country that the government wants to keep track of the strangers, but, that said, we have no address! We live down an alley, off another alley (both unnamed), off a boulevard which does have a name. And our building has no number or other indication of its nature or occupants. The best one can do if you want to direct a visitor, or taxi driver is to say that we live down the alley between The Little Hoi An Hotel and the Nova Villa Hotel. Go to the end, turn right and we are the 2nd building on the right.
Saturday 28 March 2015
The other night we went out to a specialist seafood restaurant on the riverbank, where Calvin had squid stuffed with mushrooms and herbs and I ordered fish and chips. I realised I had never actually had real fish and chips before, and this despite being a Briton with a vast experience of them in UK, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.
If the fish was 2 hours dead, I shall be surprised. It was firm, sparkling white flesh, succulent, but not watery, and came enclosed in a beer batter so light it just coated each piece, without being an extra layer. The chips were a uniform golden brown, lightly crispy on the outside and soft and fluffy on the inside. The way chips should be, and almost never are. This all came with two sauces, one a mayonnaise full or chopped spring onions, and the other a mixture of coarse salt, coarsely ground pepper and lime juice. Heaven on a plate.
March 29th
Last night was Earth Night and Vietnam also celebrated. We were out to dinner with new-found French friends, dining outside as usual. There was a procession of fairy-lit cycle rickshaws, to much applause and then the lights went out and the waiters provided candles, and everyone in the street lit a candle in a paper boat. Delightful. As we tottered home in the dark, we saw that many of the young folk had neon bracelets on, which made their arm movements surreal.
If the fish was 2 hours dead, I shall be surprised. It was firm, sparkling white flesh, succulent, but not watery, and came enclosed in a beer batter so light it just coated each piece, without being an extra layer. The chips were a uniform golden brown, lightly crispy on the outside and soft and fluffy on the inside. The way chips should be, and almost never are. This all came with two sauces, one a mayonnaise full or chopped spring onions, and the other a mixture of coarse salt, coarsely ground pepper and lime juice. Heaven on a plate.
March 29th
Last night was Earth Night and Vietnam also celebrated. We were out to dinner with new-found French friends, dining outside as usual. There was a procession of fairy-lit cycle rickshaws, to much applause and then the lights went out and the waiters provided candles, and everyone in the street lit a candle in a paper boat. Delightful. As we tottered home in the dark, we saw that many of the young folk had neon bracelets on, which made their arm movements surreal.
Thursday 26 March 2015
Vietnamese food is simply cooked but with ingredients as fresh as a daisy. I have just encountered fresh soy sauce, and it is so different from what I am used to. Sharper, saltier, altogether more intense and very thin. It is mostly a dipping sauce and these come in many varieties, adding flavour and texture to many a dish. Every table is replete with tiny shallow bowls no bigger around than a tiny coffee cup and you are never told what they are. It is a case of suck it and see.
The Vietnamese, in common with most Asian folk, are obsessed with whiteness of skin. Thus I cannot buy (so far) a body wash or deodorant which does NOT contain a whitening agent! I know they travel on two wheels all the time, which leads to weather burn, but is it (in the tropics, mind) to wear a windcheater, or tracksuit top over your shirt, plus long trousers, socks, gloves, helmet and face mask? As, when they are on foot, the outfit is much the same, minus helmet, but substituting hat who are they preserving this white skin f or?
19th March
Hard to believe, but we finally did it. 17th ,Got up at crack of dawn, so had been going 7 hours before the plane even took off. Had a pleasant interlude with Vicky and Stewart at the airport and then settled into an 11 hour flight to Hong Kong, plus a six hour time change. Several meal and movies later, we landed, and with a 25 minute walk from plane to check in, got the strength back in our legs a bit. The flight to Da Nang was only two hours with one hour time change, the other way, so that in Vietnam, we are 5 hours ahead of South Africa and Europe.
The taxi was waiting as scheduled, and we finally reached our homestay at 10a.m. and fell into bed for six hours. A short walk, an evening meal and then crashed again for 14 hours.
Hard to believe, but we finally did it. 17th ,Got up at crack of dawn, so had been going 7 hours before the plane even took off. Had a pleasant interlude with Vicky and Stewart at the airport and then settled into an 11 hour flight to Hong Kong, plus a six hour time change. Several meal and movies later, we landed, and with a 25 minute walk from plane to check in, got the strength back in our legs a bit. The flight to Da Nang was only two hours with one hour time change, the other way, so that in Vietnam, we are 5 hours ahead of South Africa and Europe.
The taxi was waiting as scheduled, and we finally reached our homestay at 10a.m. and fell into bed for six hours. A short walk, an evening meal and then crashed again for 14 hours.
Wednesday 25 March 2015
16th March This has been a hectic time. They came and took us away on 2nd. i.e. all the furniture and stuff for storage, so that the container looks like Tutankhamen's tomb, when it was first opened. This left us with the real stuff, papers, keys, minutiae which take time, plus the painter arrived and we are sleeping on a borrowed mattress on the floor.
The net result was that we fled on 4th for Amanzimtoti, and 8 hours later, I fell into bed at the coast and slept for 14 hours straight. The next day was a wild and windy one for that part of the world, and the beach was closed, so we contented ourselves with the protected tidal pool, but the salt water certainly did us good.
On Friday 6th after breakfast out, we packed up and went into Durban where we had lunch at a Moroccan restaurant in Glenwood and then on to Kim in Pietermaritzburg(He is Calvin's son). We got there before the family came home, so had a bit of time to catch up on emails etc. They now have 4 dogs, In addition to the two dachsunds, there is now the Doberman, Merlin, and Bahan, the Rottweiler. Quite a household.
A lovely weekend, and a welcome break, then back on Monday 9th to the never-ending mess which is the house. Struggled through the week, gradually getting things done, until Friday, when we left it for good and I went off to lunch at Blandford Manor with my three favorite ladies, while Calvin wrestled with last minutes and we drove off to Centurion to spend the weekend with Sarah and Rob (Calvin's daughter and son-in-law) Real downtime, though we ate ourselves silly, and on 15th back to Joburg and Philip's house which is our last stop. Even more eating, this time homemade pizzas in the pizza oven.
We have even parted with Calvin's other pride and joy. See below
The net result was that we fled on 4th for Amanzimtoti, and 8 hours later, I fell into bed at the coast and slept for 14 hours straight. The next day was a wild and windy one for that part of the world, and the beach was closed, so we contented ourselves with the protected tidal pool, but the salt water certainly did us good.
On Friday 6th after breakfast out, we packed up and went into Durban where we had lunch at a Moroccan restaurant in Glenwood and then on to Kim in Pietermaritzburg(He is Calvin's son). We got there before the family came home, so had a bit of time to catch up on emails etc. They now have 4 dogs, In addition to the two dachsunds, there is now the Doberman, Merlin, and Bahan, the Rottweiler. Quite a household.
A lovely weekend, and a welcome break, then back on Monday 9th to the never-ending mess which is the house. Struggled through the week, gradually getting things done, until Friday, when we left it for good and I went off to lunch at Blandford Manor with my three favorite ladies, while Calvin wrestled with last minutes and we drove off to Centurion to spend the weekend with Sarah and Rob (Calvin's daughter and son-in-law) Real downtime, though we ate ourselves silly, and on 15th back to Joburg and Philip's house which is our last stop. Even more eating, this time homemade pizzas in the pizza oven.
We have even parted with Calvin's other pride and joy. See below
Tuesday 3 March 2015
Sunday lst March 2015
A most interesting day. We went to a lunch (another of those goodbye things, of which we have and shall have a string. This was with old friends who are also not married and the other two guests were in the same position. Beryl and Roger have been together for 20 years, Calvin and I for 4, and Sue and Hennie for only 7 months. We are of an age group and all survivors of previous marriages with families.
Each of the men is South African and all the women are British! And none of us is settling for grandparenthood and slippers by the fire. Beryl and Roger's social life would leave most people standing, and Sue and Hennie have just started a new business making and selling solar-powered inverters for those times of electricity cuts, which we are suffering here. And as you all know by now, we are off to a whole new life on another continent.
All right, like-minded folk find one another, but it is still quite remarkable. We had to cut the lunch a bit short as we had to be back at home to finally part with this vehicle, which is Calvin,s pride and joy. Still, it has gone to a good home, and sets off on its new adventures this next weekend.
A most interesting day. We went to a lunch (another of those goodbye things, of which we have and shall have a string. This was with old friends who are also not married and the other two guests were in the same position. Beryl and Roger have been together for 20 years, Calvin and I for 4, and Sue and Hennie for only 7 months. We are of an age group and all survivors of previous marriages with families.
Each of the men is South African and all the women are British! And none of us is settling for grandparenthood and slippers by the fire. Beryl and Roger's social life would leave most people standing, and Sue and Hennie have just started a new business making and selling solar-powered inverters for those times of electricity cuts, which we are suffering here. And as you all know by now, we are off to a whole new life on another continent.
All right, like-minded folk find one another, but it is still quite remarkable. We had to cut the lunch a bit short as we had to be back at home to finally part with this vehicle, which is Calvin,s pride and joy. Still, it has gone to a good home, and sets off on its new adventures this next weekend.
Sunday 1 March 2015
Monday 23rd February 2015.
Of course, I have not actually gone anywhere yet - still in RSA amongst packing boxes, mile-long lists of ToDos and bureaucratic brakes on activity.
This is the worst part of any move, when you are still tying up everything in one place and haven't actually started on the adventure. Time alternately drags, when nothing is achieved, and races when you add up how much time is left. We are not good with time which we cannot manipulate.
Wed. 25th February 2015
The plan (remember always to have a Plan B as well) is to leave the house on 3/4 March and head off to Natal for a week. May seem a strange direction, but there are folk to visit.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch, as they say, the chaos only gets worse until it gets better. Two lots of people came today to take away things, with two more tomorrow and two on Friday.
Sunday 1st March 2015
A lot of stuff has left since Thursday. and more to go today. Tomorrow, the movers arrive and empty the house. More after that.
Of course, I have not actually gone anywhere yet - still in RSA amongst packing boxes, mile-long lists of ToDos and bureaucratic brakes on activity.
This is the worst part of any move, when you are still tying up everything in one place and haven't actually started on the adventure. Time alternately drags, when nothing is achieved, and races when you add up how much time is left. We are not good with time which we cannot manipulate.
Wed. 25th February 2015
The plan (remember always to have a Plan B as well) is to leave the house on 3/4 March and head off to Natal for a week. May seem a strange direction, but there are folk to visit.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch, as they say, the chaos only gets worse until it gets better. Two lots of people came today to take away things, with two more tomorrow and two on Friday.
Sunday 1st March 2015
A lot of stuff has left since Thursday. and more to go today. Tomorrow, the movers arrive and empty the house. More after that.
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